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10 New Restaurants of 2006 "Uncommon swimmers like flaky blackfish, meaty
Tasmanian sea bass and sweet-fleshed goldband snapper come grilled, breaded or
fried; any method arrives expertly prepared."
We were
wowed. Let’s talk barramundi in beer batter first. The beer batter is more
like an organza cloak than any heavy sponge-like batter.
Bondi Road has curiously washed ashore in the Lower East Side, bringing this famed Australian surf beach and its supreme fish to American waters.
I'm happy to go
early, perch on a high stool and drink Cooper's lager while I munch Tasmanian
sea bass fried in a
puffy batter and eat some of the crispest French fries north of Sydney.
The
concept is simple and appealing. Pick a fish (Pacific varieties like Tasmanian
sea bass, New Zealand “groper,” and the crowd-pleasing barramundi), pick a
cooking method (grilled, breaded, or fried), and pick a side, $15 total.
At this upscale
fish-and-chips joint, appetizers include plump head-on prawns in a garlicky broth,
raw-bar dishes and several varieties of fish-and-chips.
God help
us all. But Rivington Street’s latest addition, Bondi Road, from the owners of
Avenue C’s Sunburnt Cow, should not be avoided.
NOMINATED
The focus is on fresh, basic, tasty
cooking, at a reasonable price. Despite the low level of pretense (and what
else do you expect from the Aussies?), the kitchen easily rises above the level
of comfort food.
Having dinner at
Bondi Road, a new Australian fish house, where I discovered a six course chefs
tasting menu for just $35.